White Sands National Monument and Beyond

A great natural wonder lies at the northern end of the Chihuahuan Desert in the Tularosa Basin. It is a great, glistening white natural wonder of wave-like dunes of gypsum sand. At well over 250 square miles, this area is the largest gypsum dune field in the world. It can easily be seen from space.

That's why we've come to Alamogordo and that's where we're headed today...

The White Sands Visitor Center is said to be an historic adobe building so we strolled through it, looked a few souvenirs, books and listened to a little bit of the orientation film.

Whit Sands National Monument is surrounded by the San Andres Mountains to the west, Holloman Air Force Base on the east and White Sands Missile Range to the north and south.  Visits to White Sands are not allowed when missiles are being tested but those times last only a couple of hours.

To visit White Sands National Monument, we took the Dunes Drive from the visitor center about eight miles.

 Dunes Drive is covered with gypsum.

About the gypsum (directly from the brochure here). The common mineral gypsum hydrous calcium sulfate is rarely found as sand because it is soluble in water. Rain and snow in the mountains dissolve gypsum from the rocks and carry it into the Tularosa Basin. River would usually carry dissolved gypsum to the sea, but no river drains the Tularosa Basin. The water, with the gypsum and other sediments is trapped in the basin.



There were several groups picnicking on the dunes and sledding down the slopes.

A little more about White Sands Missile Range (also directly from the brochure). It was first used as a military proving grounds after World War II for testing rockets captured from German armed forces. The 4,000 Square mile range is still an important site for testing experimental weapons and space technology.
 

Tracks of some little creature.
Unlike beach sand, this is a little crispy on the surface.

We explored the entire drive by car and then stopped on the way back for a closer look at  dunes that were most interesting to us. 
 

Dunes make a nice photo setting.
That's me with Lexie and Ozzie.

Then there's always a comic.  Can you see the face on this hairy guy?

Seem I read somewhere what causes the sand to become stone, but I forgot what it is.....

The day was warm and happily without wind which surely would make a visit to White Sands pretty miserable. By late afternoon we returned to the campground, passing several pistachios farms along the way.  There are several farms here that offer guest tours.

Pistachio trees

Along the road we see some strange things.

Our campground

Boot Hill RV Park at Alamogordo was home to us for only three nights. The gravel campground was tough on Lexie's tender little feet. On the fourth morning, we pulled up stakes and headed north on Highway 54 to Carrizozo then west on US 380 where we crossed the Valley of Fires. The scenery was pretty spectacular!

Lava along the Valley of Fires

The Valley of Fires is 270 miles altogether, along a route of barren scenery of grassy prairie, stark mountains and sandy desert. This part of the long Tularosa Valley has buckled, twisted basalt lava, part of an extensive flow up to 165 feet thick. 

More lava in the Valley of Fires

We passed extensive overgrown lava flows that were dotted with yucca, cacti and other desert plants.

My favorite of the lava flow pictures

Today's route took us around Albuquerque and almost to Flagstaff before turning north.  More beauty to see as we drove toward today's destination which should have been Winslow, but instead was Page, Arizona. The day was much too long but we enjoyed it.

Couldn't resist a photo of this lonesome bar.

Another stretch of lava. This one near Grants, New Mexico

Much of our late afternoon travel was through the Navajo Nation.  Late in the afternoon, we learned  our tentative plan to stop in Page, Arizona  on our way to Utah was thwarted. Campground full.  We made another telephone call and found availability at a place called Wahweap Marina and Campground on Lake Powell.  We hadn't done any research on this place, but we'll head there and see what's there to see.  Come along, won't you?

Lubbock Texas To Alamogordo New Mexico

Texas Tech is in Lubbock, Texas and that's where we headed when we left Ingram. Wayne learned that Tech has a research library for all things related to the conflict in Vietnam.  He sometimes gets caught up in looking for military data and old buddies and I really can't fault him for that interest. If possible, he will make an inquiry into whether the general public is allowed to use the facilities or if it's use is limited to those with specific credentials.

Once we reached Mesa Verde Campground in Lubbock, however, we began having second thoughts about being here at all.  A dust storm blew in about the same time we did and the sting of blowing sand was awful. Visibility was less than a hundred yards. We arrived on a Thursday and our site is available for two nights -- meaning we have Thursday afternoon and Friday for Wayne to get to the Tech campus before we pull out on Saturday.

As it turned out, for a variety of reasons, Wayne didn't have much luck getting around on campus and he relented quickly on getting his research questions answered.  He opted for a provisions run at the local Walmart instead.

Lubbock is home to Buddy Holly and there is a Buddy Holly Center here. We didn't go in but probably should have. A popular restaurant across the street from the museum appeared to be a much more popular spot.

Perhaps Buddy Holly's home?  Just guessing since it's next door to the museum. 

I'm sure Lubbock is a nice place to live and to visit but the dry blowing dust was more than we were willing to take and so we were happy to pull out Saturday.

Following are a couple of pictures of the things we saw over and over along the way.  I could have taken the same picture a thousand times. It was all the same.  Oil wells, tanks, production equipment and the occasional water well. A few cattle dotted the landscape but for the life of me, this old southern gal can't see how a cow can survive on so little grazing land.

This picture was taken through a very dirty windshield.

Nodding Donkey's dot the landscape

Finally we happened upon an oasis of a town: Artesia, New Mexico where we were greeted by clean streets with curbs and nice business fronts.  Frankly, it would have been a nice place to stop in for a few days, but we were headed to Alamogordo and nothing was stopping us now!

Artesia has several huge western sculptures that would be worth stopping to see. 

The last leg of our "Lubbock to Alamogordo" run along US 82 was certainly a challenge just west of Mayhill where we "braked" down a winding 6% grade for more than 16 miles. It had been quite some time since we were in 7,000 + elevations and we almost forgot to let the air out of the Sleep Number mattress. When we thought of it, both chambers of the mattress registered 100 (maximum reading) but it wasn't damaged (hope, hope). To not deflate the Sleep Number mattress in high elevations will void the warranty -- just FYI.

But alas! the scenery became spectacularly beautiful as we finally pulled out of the downward grade and approached Alamogordo!

It was late in the afternoon when we settled into our site at Boot Hill RV Park just outside town. We hope to get a good day to visit White Sands National Monument during our stay. 

Museum of the Pacific, Admiral Nimitz and Our Personal Memory of Fredricksburg

Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz was born in Fredricksburg, Texas near the hotel location in the photograph below. The original hotel was built by his grandfather, who had been a sea captain. Very little of the original hotel stands in the structure that's here today. Nevertheless, it is worth seeing as we will include it in our day visit to the Museum of the Pacific in this block of downtown Fredricksburg. We had visited Admiral Nimitz's grave when we were in San Francisco a few years ago. He is buried in the same cemetery as Wayne's Uncle Hansel.

Nimitz Hotel 

The Museum of the Pacific was a much more informative museum, in our opinion, than the National World War II (D-Day) Museum in New Orleans that we visited in March. A single ticket grants 48 hour access to the museum, the outside displays and the Nimitz Hotel property, which is a museum to the Nimitz family. Wayne spent quite a bit of time inside while the pups and I strolled around outside in the memorial courtyard and the Japanese Garden of Peace.

Wayne at the Plaza of Presidents
Museum of the Pacific

The Plaza of Presidents in the photo above are part of the Museum of the Pacific. They represent 10 consecutive United States Presidents' service during World War II.  They are: Franklin D Roosevelt (Commander in Chief),  Harry Truman (Army), Dwight Eisenhower (Army), John Kennedy (Navy), Lyndon Johnson (Navy), Richard Nixon (Navy), Gerald Ford (Navy), Jimmy Carter (Navy), Ronald Reagan (Army) and George Bush (Navy).

Admiral Chester W. Nimitz Died February 20, 1966
He held the Distinguished Service Medal with 2 gold stars

In an earlier post, I mentioned that Wayne and I had been to Fredricksburg, Texas by necessity when Hurricane Rita evacuated the entire city of Houston on the heels of Hurricane Katrina.  My mother, who was in her 80's, lived with us in Houston and her health left us no choice to take her out of harms way.  

Wayne drove for 21 hours without rest in snarled traffic north from Houston.  It was morning of the second day when we stopped in at a Bed & Breakfast reservation office in Fredricksburg. They knew of a single location that could take us for a few days of rest.  The cabin in the picture below is where the three of us stayed until Hurricane Rita passed. Mom slept in the single bed on the lower level. Wayne and I slept in the loft.

The cabin was built in Pennsylvania and moved to Fredricksburg 

Inside the cabin. It is decorated differently than the days we stayed here. 

This Fredricksburg property is for sale now. We gained access the the interior of the cabin when we caught a real estate agent showing the property to a prospective buyer.   

LBJ Ranch: The Texas White House

From Austin we made our way through Texas Hill Country to Fredericksburg. We wanted to visit the quaint German-influenced town, tour the National Museum of the Pacific War and take a day trip to the LBJ Ranch.

Those who know us know we don't often travel with an itinerary and rarely have campground reservations ahead of time. Call us "non-committal" if you like but that's the way we like it -- not always, but most of the time. Anyway, upon reaching Fredericksburg and finding our first choice campground filled, we tried our second through sixth choices -- and they were full too!

It took less than 3 frantic minutes to find a nearby town with campground space available. All we had to do was get out of the touristy city of Fredericksburg. We went to Johnson Creek RV Park in Ingram, Texas where the campground is part of a working pecan ranch. The roads are paved, the pads concrete and grass actually grew between the spaces.  We committed for a week. It was a bit farther from the sights we want to see, but the lower price, quiet surroundings and star-filled night sky sure made up for the distance.

Our campsite in the pecan trees at Johnson Creek RV Park.
That's Wayne with Lexie and Ozzie in their stroller. We'd been for a long walk. 

Johnson Creek RV Park is a small, family owned property and it has some unusual touches and excellent amenities. We enjoyed our stay there.

Johnson Creek RV Park chapel along the river. 

Johnson Creek RV Park Western Town is complete with a jail. 

Our day trip to the LBJ Ranch was the second time we'd been there. Living in Houston during Hurricane Rita, we evacuated our home and found ourselves driving more than 24 hours, in traffic from hell, to get a place to sleep.  More about that in another post though.

Texas Bluebonnets are in full bloom.
These were on the State Park property. 

The LBJ ranch is located near (if not in) the town of Stonewall about half way between Fredericksburg and Johnson City. The Johnson's donated the property to the National Park Service, retaining a lifetime right to live there. It is divided into several sections identified as State Parks and National Historical Parks.  We first stopped in at the State Park to gather the information necessary to take the driving tour over the ranch.

Part of the State Park, this historic sight was the home of a close Johnson neighbor but I forgot the name. 

Trinity Lutheran Church where the Johnson's attended. 

The road leading to the LBJ Ranch is Ranch Road 1

Junction School. It is open to the public via the rear entry, 

Home of Lyndon Johnson's grandfather. We saw photos of young Lyndon playing here. 

LBJ Boyhood home. 

This beautiful scene is along the road to the ranch,  not far from the Perdernales River.

The Johnson Family cemetery.
The two largest headstones are for Lyndon and Lady Bird Johnson 

President Johnson had strong attachments to places and heritage. He was born on this Texas hill country property, he lived here, died and was buried here. That's the way he wanted it. Lyndon Baines Johnson died at age 64, just four years after leaving the Presidency. His health deteriorated rapidly after retirement and his father had died at a young age. Many said he knew he wouldn't live to be an old man.

After stopping by each of these sights, we drove onto the vast LBJ Ranch property which, does remain a working ranch today -- complete with livestock.

LBJ Livestock Barn. Mrs. Johnson had this one built to replace the one near the house.

After the death of Lady Bird Johnson in 2007, the Texas White House tour was completed and made available to the National Park Service. Until that time, after LBJ's death, Mrs. Johnson continued to live here. At this point in the driving tour, visitors can see the President's airplane, tour the hanger, see the automobiles and the home of the Johnson's.

LBJ referred to this aircraft as Air Force One-Half.

The Texas White House.  The President's office is in the single level part of the home on this side of the picture. 

The interior of the LBJ home, known as The Texas White House, cannot be photographed. Our tour included a visit to the President's office, living and dining rooms and a walk through the kitchen. The house was surprisingly simple and absent grandiose appointments. The laundry room contained a Maytag washer and dryer set just like the one my mother had in the 1960's. We entered the private bedrooms of both Lyndon and Lady Bird. She decided, after many interruptions in the middle of the night, that she needed her own, uninterrupted sleeping quarters. Neither bedroom was anything more than plain and simple.

The tour takes visitors through the very intimate parts of the Johnson home, including the President's bathroom where there is a telephone on the wall next to the commode. An "Air Force One" towel hung on the towel bar. We saw the First Lady's bathroom too.  Both closets were open and contained their clothes, shoes, hats and other items we have all seen in photographs.  It was a strange thing to see the President's personal belongings. It seemed as though they might walk in to see us looking at their private lives.

The Johnson swimming pool and the exit from Lady Bird Johnson's bedroom to the yard. 

The bed where the former President died is there -- complete with the white bedspread. The tour guide explained that President Johnson laid down for a rest after getting up early to meet with his ranch foreman. Mrs. Johnson was in Austin. Lyndon Johnson died alone and unattended.

LBJ Ranch cattle

After our tour of the Texas White House, we finished the driving tour of the ranch and made our way back to the campground at Ingram.

All The Way With LBJ

The 1961 Inaugural Invitation 




This authentic invitation is on display at the LBJ Library and Museum

The Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Library and Museum is in Austin, Texas. The library is the location of the final public speech given by the former President.

LBJ is rather special in Wayne's view as he was Commander In Chief during the Vietnam conflict era and that's when Wayne performed his military service.  The Library has artifacts made available to visitors from President Johnson's life in American politics and the Vietnam conflict era.  The wartime effects in the library were especially meaningful to him.

Just as we did two weeks ago in College Station at the George Bush Presidential Library and Museum, we spent a little time getting comfortable in the Oval Office -- you just never know.

Wayne in the Oval Office during President Johnson's time there. 

On display at the LBJ Library and Museum
Telstar Satellite, launched July 10, 1962
One of the most significant communications satellites in the early days of space exploration. 

Responsible for successfully creating "The Great Society" complete with social service programs including the creation of Medicare, Medicaid and the Civil Rights Act, Lyndon Johnson bore the brunt of national opposition to the conflict in Vietnam and his vast expansion of troop involvement there. The quote below, reportedly by the President, says it all.

Many items from the First Lady's days alongside her husband were displayed at the Presidential Library too.  Until this visit, I didn't know (or had forgotten) she received the Presidential Medal of Freedom.
 

After his death, former President Johnson's body was carried up these steps where he lay in state here in his Presidential Museum and Library.
 

Upon completing our tour of the LBJ Library and Museum, we managed to locate nearby Stubb's Bar-B-Q Restaurant. Wayne has, for many years, used Stubb's marinate and sauce when he cooks on the grill. We ate a southern pulled pork barbeque sandwich which was good, but overpriced. 

Our visit to Stubb's wrapped up this visit to Austin as even more people were expected to arrive for the Annual Relay to be held here over the weekend.  We'll move along.  Hope to see you down the road!  

Austin: Deep In The Heart Of Texas

Austin is a vibrant city. The capitol of Texas, it has several nicknames and according to the people who live and work there, these are the most fitting:

# 5) City of the Violet Crown - for the violet colored sunsets frequently seen over Lady Bird Lake in the heart of Austin.

# 4) The People's Republic of Austin - as the capitol is often a liberal island in a sea of conservative politicians.

# 3) Bat City - Um hum... there are 1.5 million Mexican free tailed bats live under a bridge in Austin from March until November every year. (No, didn't see 'em, thank you very much.)

# 2) Live Music Capitol of the World - Austin City Limits and all, I suppose. They say the most live music, festivals and so on, but I've lived in Nashville and I know the truth.

# 1) Weird City -  Signs of "Keep Austin Weird" abound everywhere. They are in a continuous war, of sorts, with Portland, Oregon over this one.

It's their list, folks, not mine.

We didn't get to Lady Bird Lake during our short stay in Austin.  The huge 2014 Texas Relay sporting event was coming to town, filling every camping spot for miles around and traffic was bumper to bumper. We jammed every other thing into our schedule we could manage and then... well, we flew the coop.

Here's what we did manage to see...

The lovely capitol building including a short stroll around inside the dome (on a cloudy afternoon). 

Texas Longhorns football field... naturally. 

Nice view of Darrel K. Royal Stadium 

The University of Texas Bell Tower

The Bell Tower on the campus of the University of Texas served as the stage for a mass murder on August 1, 1966. A shooter stole to the top of the tower carrying an inventory of weapons. He fatally shot 14 people, including one police officer, and wounded 32 others on the ground below. Charles Whitman, a 25 year old student and former Marine, had already killed his mother and his wife.

The point from where a 96 minute shooting spree left 43 shooting victims dead or injured, including the shooter.
This incident spurred the creation of S.W.A.T. teams across the nation. 

Before escaping Austin we did take a half-day tour of the Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Library and Museum.  That's for the next post.  

The Great Place: Fort Hood

The U.S. Army's Fort Hood, or "The Great Place" as it is called by those who are stationed, live and work there, is home to III Corps, 1st Cavalry Division and a host of other commands and units. It is one of the largest United States military installations in the world.  

Fort Hood is named for Confederate General John Bell Hood, Commander of Hood's Texas Brigade in the Civil War. It is located in Killeen, Texas. We're here specifically to visit Fort Hood. 

The U.S. War Department selected the location of Fort Hood in 1942 for it's open space to test WWII tank destroyers. Today, Fort Hood is home to over 65,000 soldiers and their families.

In recent times Fort Hood units have deployed to Afghanistan and Iraq. The 4th Infantry Division was involved in the capture of Saddam Hussein in 2003.

Visiting The Great Place we walked among the displays of heavy artillery. Wayne described them to me, including when and where each type was used and how well they performed.  It was interesting, I confess, even though I don't share his military enthusiasm. Unfortunately, I didn't make a note of the details to include here. To keep the photos to a manageable minimum, I made two collages in which many are displayed. 

Tanks

Not tanks

Ozzie and I were looking for a lift in a First Calvary Division helicopter gunship.  Didn't happen.

This vehicle sat outside the area where the other military vehicles were displayed.
On the side is handwritten in white paint, "Last vehicle out of Iraq" --
I'm not sure if that is recent graffiti or if it really is the LAST vehicle out of Iraq, but I'm suspecting the latter. 

In November 2009, Major Nidal Malik Hasan, a U.S. Army psychiatrist, opened fire in the Soldier Readiness Center at Fort Hood, killing thirteen and wounding thirty others.

A poor quality and little picture
for a poor quality and little man:
Nidal Hasan

While we visited Fort Hood we passed the building where the shooting took place but didn't photograph it. That was a difficult thing to think about.  In August 2013, Hasan was sentenced to death for what has been said to be the worst mass murder at a military installation in U.S. history.

Sadly, as I prepare this post, another shooting at Fort Hood is on being reported on the television news. What a strange coincidence.