Lobster and Clam Supper!

The first weekend at Shady Oaks Campground in Orland, Maine we met our neighbors, Lori, Errol and Maddie, their daughter and another family, Gleason, Barbara and their son Tim. They are lobstermen. They invited us to join them for lobster clam dinner!

August 11 - , 2010 Shady Oaks Campground at Orland, Maine

Don and Joyce Nelson own Shady Oaks Campground. What wonderful people they are! Here they are making pancake breakfast for everyone! They do it every Sunday morning.

Don made the train himself using an old lawnmower motor. Free trainrides and treats for all every Friday and Saturday evening.

No, it's not Don -- it's Don's twin brother.

Oh joy! What a pleasant, peaceful and friendly place we've found at Shady Oaks Campground in Orland, Maine. The owners, Don and Joyce Nelson, have made us feel welcome and allowed us to select the site of our choice. We're in #19 and are so happy to have come here.

Wednesday, August 10. Wayne's Birthday and Our Entry into Maine

Just after lunch we crossed the border at St. Stephens, New Brunswick, Canada and Calais, Maine on the U.S. side. The border crossing was uneventful and quick afterwhich we drove south and then east in a very rural part of Maine. I've given up looking for moose and bear but continue to see moose warning signs. Ho-hum. Today's destination is Sullivan, Maine where we have a Camping Club USA membership reservation for one night at Mountainview Campground. They can only accomodate us for one night but this will give us a chance to look around for a centrally located place that's suitable for a 5-7 day stay so we'll be able to receive our mail. During the afternoon, we visited three area campgrounds and found the rates to be quite high as we are still "in season" for Maine vacationing.

At the last minute on Wednesday morning, August 11, I made a quick call to the least expensive campground we could find but did not visit the night before. They have a space to accomodate us and I told the lady we'd be there by mid-morning.

Penobsquis and St. John New Brunswick

The smell of a nearby pig farm made a pungent smell at Three Bears Campground in Penobsquis but we rested well that night and rose early to make our way five miles down the road to Doug's Campers where the campground owners, Wayne and Steve, thought we might get a remedy to the slide awning problem. Mrs. Doug, however, referred us to LeisureTime Service Center and Camper Sales at Hampton and we got underway immediately. While repairs were being made we had lunch and did our laundry at at whopping $28! Yikes. By about 4 p.m. we were underway again and headed to St. John where we planned to stop at Rockwood Campground overnight. It's been rainy all day and a heavy fog rolled in after dark at Rockwood Campground, followed by a tremendous thunderstorm overnight. The next morning, water was standing about 3" deep all around, except the rise in the gravel where Mona was parked. We pulled out early to get back into the US for the night.

From Nova Scotia to Indian Harbor, Nova Scotia

On the morning of Friday, August 6, we left Englishtown Ridge enroute to the Halifax area where we wanted to see the capitol city and the Peggy's Cove and surrounding areas. The ride was pleasant and we arrived at our new destination, King Neptune Campground at Indian Harbor, Nova Scotia. It's only about 5 miles from Peggy's Cove. The campground is rather dumpy, rustic and sits right on the water's edge. A great fog rolled in at about the same time as we began setting up camp and it was an interesting experience. We could hear the bells on the buoys out in the water. The fog disapated after a short while and the sun reappeared in time for a nice orange glow sunset.


We took a ride to Peggy's Cove to see the most photographed lighthouse and city in Canada. Along the way we stopped to see a memorial that's been placed along the rocky shore in honor of the SwissAir Flight #111 air crash and I've posted some pictures of it here.


The next day we took a ride into Halifax and saw the port, headquarters of the eastern division of the Canadian Navy and then went into Peninsula Park.

We stayed two nights at King Neptune. Being out of the country for such a long time has made us both a little worried that we need to tend to some personal business and retrieve our mail so we've decided to drive into Maine at least for a while.

While driving through Nova Scotia we began hearing noises outside the coach and we found the slide cover problem had returned. Alongside the highway, Wayne climed onto the ladder to try to remedy it, but couldn't get a fix that was satisfactory. We made our way, slowly, on into Penobsquis, N.B. where we set up camp for one night at Three Bears Campground. The co-owners of the campground were helpful in getting the slide cover canvas rolled in well enough to get it to the nearest RV service center, located just beyond Hampton, along the way to St. John.

Englishtown Ridge and Western Cape Breton Highlands National Park

On Wednesday, August 4 and 5 we camped at a small family owned campground on a ridge in Englishtown, Cape Breton. We had planned to take the rig across a small river on a local ferry but changed our minds when we arrived at the dock and spoke with the ferry attendant who said he "wouldn't advise it" because of our length. The intended campground was on the other side of the river. The river was swift (to say the least) and the ferry was held in place by a 2" steel cable. I guess I wouldn't advise it either! We returned to Englishtown Ridge Campground and signed on for two nights so we'd have a full day to drive up the western side of Cape Breton.

The day we arrived at Englishtown was frightfully rainy --poured all day. We made seafood chowder and enjoyed the cool night -- again.

The next full day we spent exploring the cape and ate lunch at a local cafe. We both ordered a seafood dish and every morsel was eaten.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park

We checked into the National Park campground for two nights, August 2 & 3 and took a day trip up the eastern side of Cape Breton. We'd been told about the Skyline Trail and that taking it certainly would insure wildlife sightings. We've seen only the bear on the New Brunswick roadside to this point. (We've also not had steamed lobster yet, but that's another story...) Lots of fresh sea air, beautiful mountains and sea views, but a five mile hike along a 1700 ft ridge did not produce the moose sighting I wanted. Moose signs are everywhere but NO MOOSE. We've been told they are most active at night. Anyway, along that long walk, we saw one mouse (yes, m-o-u-s-e who appeared to be trained to walk on the trail) but no moose, bear, eagle, coyote, bobcat or other wildlife. We also got a great sunburn. For 20 years I've avoided the sun and now I get burned in Canada. Just peachy. The day was great, nevertheless, even without the wildlife and after the second night at the National Park, we moved around to the western side of the cape where we stayed two more nights at Englishtown, Nova Scotia.

Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

Two lane bridge road and adjoining railroad.

My paternal grandmother was born in Cheticamp at Cape Breton in Nova Scotia so I was especially excited to make my first visit this part of Canada. Wayne has been good to indulge me in all these family connection places as I knew he would. We disembarked the ferry and at Pictou and began the drive up the northeastern shore planning to stop about halfway to overnight. Big problems lay ahead, unknown to us, of course. The road alternated between "horribly rough" or "smooth and really narrow" and we veered off onto the sandy shoulder many times. I was glad Wayne was driving.

A campground we had tentatively selected at Inverness was the destination. However, we arrived to find no space for us and we were instructed to turn the rig around on the grass. Within 10 feet of a successful turn around, Mona's tires began to spin on the soft grass. When we stopped, the tires seemed to sink into the boggy soil. Long story short: We were stuck in mud up to the axle and we were there for the night -- space or no space. 

The proud owner of this delimma.

Our RV Roadside Assistance service came to the rescue just before dusk after we ate our "gourmet" peanut butter and banana sandwiches. A friendly Frenchman, Louis Levelance, his son and granddaughter, arrived in a Ford F-350 SuperDuty pickup loaded with a 4-wheeler and several new large appliances (they had been shopping when the call came). Mr. Levelance attached a chain to Mona and pulled her out of the mud and onto the adjoining pavement in just one short tug. Everyone was thrilled with the success.

By this time a beautiful sunset was occuring over the Northumberland Strait and the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

We were given permission (with a $30 fee) to stay the night there on the spot -- no power or water. We gladly paid the fee and stayed right there on the campground roadway.  It was a comfortable night with the moonlight and the light was beautiful reflecting off the ocean.

All's well that ends well. The next morning, we pulled out early and continued our travel toward Cheticamp. The scenery was breathtaking.

Cheticamp is a seaside village

This church dates back to the days my grandmother would have lived here.
Maybe she went to church here!

Charlottesville, P.E.I. and the Harrington Family Fun Park Campground

We stayed a week at Cape Lumiere and pulled out on Wednesday morning, July 28th. The front roadside slide cover didn't retract fully and caused a bit of delay in our departure. Wayne ended up on top of the coach and poked around the roller to get it back in enough for travel. We think the high winds and heavy rains caused the problem. It's fixed for now anyway.

It's not a long drive from Richibucto Village, New Brunswick to the Confederation Bridge crossing onto Prince Edward Island and we arrived by mid-afternoon. Wayne had never been to any of the Maritime Provinces and it's been many years since I visited P.E.I. with my family as a little girl, I think it was 1962. My paternal grandfather was born and lived here as a child so I was eager to see it again and P.E.I. did not disappoint. It is a beautiful agricultural and fishing island. Potatoes are the main crop. Growers place bags of potatoes along the roadside for purchase on the honor system. The landscape is beautiful.

Unlike Quebec, all the signs in the Maritime Provinces are displayed
in both French and English.

Confederation Bridge.

Our GPS (Miss Garmin) gave us a mis-que but we recovered and went to our planned destination and it was quite an experience. A small community known as Harrington was the setting for this park, advertised as a "Family Fun Park" campground. Following the directions, we pulled our 60' rig onto a small one lane road through a field to a "now defunct" restaurant that advertised Canadian / Persian food. We passed an old weather beaten house and finally came to a large, collapsing wooden barn. It's hard to turn 60' of motorhome and tow vehicle around so we decided to stop and check it out on foot. A woman called out from the back yard of the weather beaten house. "Keep going to the campground," she called out to us. So, we climbed back into the coach and slowly moved along onto the red dusty road to a tiny wooden structure marked "Office". We were greeted by an old man, dressed in very dirty dress pants, shirt and tie. His clothes were covered in sweat and red dust stains. He had a very heavy Iranian accent and he smelled really bad. He pointed to the rules and said "No" when I pulled out my credit card to pay. Cash only. I told him our name and he responded by shoving a registration card toward me. I said we'd stay for one night to which he replied "no" again. Two night minimum. We agreed and paid cash for two nights. At least the rate was good.

What the Harrington Family Fun Park and Campground lacked in personality and charm was made up for in site services. We had newly installed 50 amp electric, sewer and water service for $12.50 (Canadian) per night. The park had newly planted trees and grass and was sparcely populated. The mosquitos weren't so bad here, but there were lots of little swarming gnats in the early evening. We were pretty pleased with our selection though. We're cheap dates.

First we explored Charlottestown, the capitol city of Prince Edward Island. There is a touristy area along the dock and we stopped in for mussel at a wharf restaurant. From there we walked a few blocks to a local eatery for fish and chips. Here are some of the photos:

Enjoying a bowl of steamed mussels

The Fish N Chips Restaurant a few blocks from the wharf area.

After lunch (nap time)

The second morning we stopped by the campground office to sign on for two more nights. We were told to "pay now" instead of later. After that we struck out to see the famous P.E.I. red cliffs and lighthouses.

Typical homes on Prince Edward Island

Plenty of outside eateries in summer months

We took the southwestern route and saw more beautiful rolling farmland and potato fields on our way to the West Point Beach and Lighthouse.

Potato fields all in bloom.  Some white and some lavender colored.

This field has more lavender potato blooms

We came across the huge wind turbines (called wind mills) we had seen with binoculars from Cape Lumiere and we learned there had been an enormous wind energy study conducted in this area back in the 80's.

This photo gives a better "feel" for the size of the turbines.
Compared to the house in the center of the picture.

These wind machines were all across the land here.

This is the only hotel lighthouse in all of Canada, I think I read.

West Point Beach Lighthouse
Hotel adjoining (in the rear)

Along the red sand beach at the lighthouse

A Canadian Provincial Park was nearby and we walked through it. These parks have just 15 amps, but this one was nice with camp spots along the seashore.

We at lunch at a newly opened restaurant near the park. Skeptical at first and growing doubtful at sub-par service, we were delighted when we tasted the seafood chowder we'd ordered.


Some of the best seafood chowder I've ever tasted!
Can't say much for that biscuit -- but some good chowder.

Just outside the restaurant.  Fishermen and lobstermen are in an out all day.

Everything seems colorful here.  Maybe it's the buoys.

The last full day, Sunday, we took a ride to the southeast area of P.E.I. to Wood Islands. We wanted to check on the ferry to Nova Scotia. The Confederation Bridge crossing is without cost coming onto P.E.I., but is charged when you leave. The bridge toll along with the cost of fuel would be comparable to the $110 fee to take the rig across on the ferry. We watched the ferry unload and reload and leave port.

At Woods Island Lighthouse



The ferry that goes from Woods Island PEI to Caribou, Nova Scotia.
It too, is named Confederation -- like the bridge

We're trying to decide whether to take our rig across on the ferry
or to take the bridge back and then go around on land.

The star on the sign shows where Wood Island is situated on PEI

The Great Adventurer

That night Wayne got all his books and maps out.
He's decided by now to take the ferry across. 

 I'm going to try to load a link to the video I took as we boarded. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lZaznyBroGeP9ZZtrKmaTqyFqS5yIYMVZbzk3GNTa9Q?feat=directlink

From July 28-31, 2010 PEI

If you click onto the picture above, you'll see the movie I took as we drove the rig onto the ferry. 
Here are some of the pictures I took too...

We were just one of several large rigs aboard the Ferry.

Looking back at the Wood Island Lighthouse from aboard the ship.

A little different perspective of Wood Island Lighthouse and ferry port

Cool but sunny. 

Coming into Caribou, Nova Scotia we saw lots of sailboats

The approach to the ferry port at Caribou Nova Scotia