Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

Two lane bridge road and adjoining railroad.

My paternal grandmother was born in Cheticamp at Cape Breton in Nova Scotia so I was especially excited to make my first visit this part of Canada. Wayne has been good to indulge me in all these family connection places as I knew he would. We disembarked the ferry and at Pictou and began the drive up the northeastern shore planning to stop about halfway to overnight. Big problems lay ahead, unknown to us, of course. The road alternated between "horribly rough" or "smooth and really narrow" and we veered off onto the sandy shoulder many times. I was glad Wayne was driving.

A campground we had tentatively selected at Inverness was the destination. However, we arrived to find no space for us and we were instructed to turn the rig around on the grass. Within 10 feet of a successful turn around, Mona's tires began to spin on the soft grass. When we stopped, the tires seemed to sink into the boggy soil. Long story short: We were stuck in mud up to the axle and we were there for the night -- space or no space. 

The proud owner of this delimma.

Our RV Roadside Assistance service came to the rescue just before dusk after we ate our "gourmet" peanut butter and banana sandwiches. A friendly Frenchman, Louis Levelance, his son and granddaughter, arrived in a Ford F-350 SuperDuty pickup loaded with a 4-wheeler and several new large appliances (they had been shopping when the call came). Mr. Levelance attached a chain to Mona and pulled her out of the mud and onto the adjoining pavement in just one short tug. Everyone was thrilled with the success.

By this time a beautiful sunset was occuring over the Northumberland Strait and the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

We were given permission (with a $30 fee) to stay the night there on the spot -- no power or water. We gladly paid the fee and stayed right there on the campground roadway.  It was a comfortable night with the moonlight and the light was beautiful reflecting off the ocean.

All's well that ends well. The next morning, we pulled out early and continued our travel toward Cheticamp. The scenery was breathtaking.

Cheticamp is a seaside village

This church dates back to the days my grandmother would have lived here.
Maybe she went to church here!

Charlottesville, P.E.I. and the Harrington Family Fun Park Campground

We stayed a week at Cape Lumiere and pulled out on Wednesday morning, July 28th. The front roadside slide cover didn't retract fully and caused a bit of delay in our departure. Wayne ended up on top of the coach and poked around the roller to get it back in enough for travel. We think the high winds and heavy rains caused the problem. It's fixed for now anyway.

It's not a long drive from Richibucto Village, New Brunswick to the Confederation Bridge crossing onto Prince Edward Island and we arrived by mid-afternoon. Wayne had never been to any of the Maritime Provinces and it's been many years since I visited P.E.I. with my family as a little girl, I think it was 1962. My paternal grandfather was born and lived here as a child so I was eager to see it again and P.E.I. did not disappoint. It is a beautiful agricultural and fishing island. Potatoes are the main crop. Growers place bags of potatoes along the roadside for purchase on the honor system. The landscape is beautiful.

Unlike Quebec, all the signs in the Maritime Provinces are displayed
in both French and English.

Confederation Bridge.

Our GPS (Miss Garmin) gave us a mis-que but we recovered and went to our planned destination and it was quite an experience. A small community known as Harrington was the setting for this park, advertised as a "Family Fun Park" campground. Following the directions, we pulled our 60' rig onto a small one lane road through a field to a "now defunct" restaurant that advertised Canadian / Persian food. We passed an old weather beaten house and finally came to a large, collapsing wooden barn. It's hard to turn 60' of motorhome and tow vehicle around so we decided to stop and check it out on foot. A woman called out from the back yard of the weather beaten house. "Keep going to the campground," she called out to us. So, we climbed back into the coach and slowly moved along onto the red dusty road to a tiny wooden structure marked "Office". We were greeted by an old man, dressed in very dirty dress pants, shirt and tie. His clothes were covered in sweat and red dust stains. He had a very heavy Iranian accent and he smelled really bad. He pointed to the rules and said "No" when I pulled out my credit card to pay. Cash only. I told him our name and he responded by shoving a registration card toward me. I said we'd stay for one night to which he replied "no" again. Two night minimum. We agreed and paid cash for two nights. At least the rate was good.

What the Harrington Family Fun Park and Campground lacked in personality and charm was made up for in site services. We had newly installed 50 amp electric, sewer and water service for $12.50 (Canadian) per night. The park had newly planted trees and grass and was sparcely populated. The mosquitos weren't so bad here, but there were lots of little swarming gnats in the early evening. We were pretty pleased with our selection though. We're cheap dates.

First we explored Charlottestown, the capitol city of Prince Edward Island. There is a touristy area along the dock and we stopped in for mussel at a wharf restaurant. From there we walked a few blocks to a local eatery for fish and chips. Here are some of the photos:

Enjoying a bowl of steamed mussels

The Fish N Chips Restaurant a few blocks from the wharf area.

After lunch (nap time)

The second morning we stopped by the campground office to sign on for two more nights. We were told to "pay now" instead of later. After that we struck out to see the famous P.E.I. red cliffs and lighthouses.

Typical homes on Prince Edward Island

Plenty of outside eateries in summer months

We took the southwestern route and saw more beautiful rolling farmland and potato fields on our way to the West Point Beach and Lighthouse.

Potato fields all in bloom.  Some white and some lavender colored.

This field has more lavender potato blooms

We came across the huge wind turbines (called wind mills) we had seen with binoculars from Cape Lumiere and we learned there had been an enormous wind energy study conducted in this area back in the 80's.

This photo gives a better "feel" for the size of the turbines.
Compared to the house in the center of the picture.

These wind machines were all across the land here.

This is the only hotel lighthouse in all of Canada, I think I read.

West Point Beach Lighthouse
Hotel adjoining (in the rear)

Along the red sand beach at the lighthouse

A Canadian Provincial Park was nearby and we walked through it. These parks have just 15 amps, but this one was nice with camp spots along the seashore.

We at lunch at a newly opened restaurant near the park. Skeptical at first and growing doubtful at sub-par service, we were delighted when we tasted the seafood chowder we'd ordered.


Some of the best seafood chowder I've ever tasted!
Can't say much for that biscuit -- but some good chowder.

Just outside the restaurant.  Fishermen and lobstermen are in an out all day.

Everything seems colorful here.  Maybe it's the buoys.

The last full day, Sunday, we took a ride to the southeast area of P.E.I. to Wood Islands. We wanted to check on the ferry to Nova Scotia. The Confederation Bridge crossing is without cost coming onto P.E.I., but is charged when you leave. The bridge toll along with the cost of fuel would be comparable to the $110 fee to take the rig across on the ferry. We watched the ferry unload and reload and leave port.

At Woods Island Lighthouse



The ferry that goes from Woods Island PEI to Caribou, Nova Scotia.
It too, is named Confederation -- like the bridge

We're trying to decide whether to take our rig across on the ferry
or to take the bridge back and then go around on land.

The star on the sign shows where Wood Island is situated on PEI

The Great Adventurer

That night Wayne got all his books and maps out.
He's decided by now to take the ferry across. 

 I'm going to try to load a link to the video I took as we boarded. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lZaznyBroGeP9ZZtrKmaTqyFqS5yIYMVZbzk3GNTa9Q?feat=directlink

From July 28-31, 2010 PEI

If you click onto the picture above, you'll see the movie I took as we drove the rig onto the ferry. 
Here are some of the pictures I took too...

We were just one of several large rigs aboard the Ferry.

Looking back at the Wood Island Lighthouse from aboard the ship.

A little different perspective of Wood Island Lighthouse and ferry port

Cool but sunny. 

Coming into Caribou, Nova Scotia we saw lots of sailboats

The approach to the ferry port at Caribou Nova Scotia

Things We Noticed About Canada

Having spent almost a month traveling through Quebec, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia, we made some observations:
Bicycles - There are lots of seemingly serious cyclists. We've seen them on the highways loaded with backpacks, saddlebags and some even pulling little trailers.
Ice Cream - Called "Dairy Bars" dot the roadways and most of the ones we passed had customers waiting in line.
Patient People - Car horns are seldom used -- even in Quebec City. Drivers seem very considerate.
Church Steeples - I seen so many tall, narrow silver steeples. I took pictures of the first few, but then they became so common to see... We also notices lots of churches with their steeples removed. We don't know why...
Berry Pickers - The first few times we saw people squatted along the roadside, we thought... well you know. Found out they stop along the roadway to pick wild blueberries.
Motorcycles - So many motorcyclists, men and women. Many different styles too. Some that resemble snowmobiles on wheels. Many restaurants and campgrounds display "bikers welcome" signs. We saw one in a campground, pulling a little trailer that opened into a "pop out" tent.
Law Enforcement - Not that we're worried about it, mind you, but we observed very few law enforcement cars in Canada. Don't know why this is either. We did see some Mounted Police in Quebec though.
Grocery - Almost everything costs more in Canada than where we're from. Also of note is that some national brands of foods are different. Example: Quaker Oatmeal Squares are not the same texture or taste.

Cape Lumier, Richibucto Village, New Brunswick

On July 21 we traveled south into New Brunswick. I've been patiently watching to see live bears and moose while we ride. I've seen lots of signs identifying certain road sections as crossings for them. Suddenly I caught a glimpse of the upper part of a standing bear in a field just off to my right. He had a beautiful black coat and was standing upright! And then in another heartbeat he was out of sight!

It's been much cooler since we left Quebec and the days are warm and sunny now, but not hot.

We arrived at Cape Lumiere Campground along the New Brunswick shore in early afternoon of July 21. Across the Northunberland Strait we can see Prince Edward Island. The campground is small and without amenities, but our site is near the water and the Cape Lumiere lighthouse. Almost everything here is bilingual so we're better able to communicate. The afternoon we arrived we met our neighbors, Duncan and Rita Smith, from Irricana, Alberta. They have been full-timing in their Newmar motorcoach for 18 months and have traveled as far south as the Panama Canal and as far north as Newfoundland and Labrador. We enjoyed our visits with them for two days before they pulled out for Nova Scotia. Our plan is to stay on at this campground for a few days.

This is the area near where my Father grew up and the many thoughts about him make me happy and sad.

Until we arrived here, our camping fee budget was exceeded, but the rate here is low enough to bring the monthly average down quite a bit and we get one night free too. Only one problem: Giant black mosquitos and horseflies. The mosquitos are relentless. Wayne is always a favorite mosquito target and they feast on him here. They even grab on to our legs and ankles while we're riding bicycles!
Here are some pictures we took while in the area:

July 21-23, 2010 Cape Lumiere - Richibucto Village, NB

Into New Brunswick. Parc Malybel at Bresford

Tuesday, July 20 we did it again: Checked into another family campground with hundreds of children, bicycles, dogs, cats, music and "corn hole" toss games. But alas! this campground goes a step beyond: It has a giant waterslide and an ice cream stand. But we were tired after the drive south from Rivere du Loup and we took our place and made camp for the night. Mind you we don't dislike children and pets, it's just that we don't have either with us and when we're tired, we would rather be among our peers: OLD PEOPLE. From here we started looking closer into our Woodalls Camping Directory for campgrounds without such amenities. I didn't take any pictures during our short stay here.

La Rayon de Soleil Campground at St. Alexandre-de-Kamouraska, Quebec

After backtracking through Quebec City and crossing the river, we traveled east along in route to Rivere du Loup. Mid afternoon that Sunday, we reached the day's destination a former KOA Campground, now independently owned and renamed Le Rayon de Soleil where we stayed for two nights. We never knew exactly why, but there was a small pen in the campground that held one goat and one sheep who looked happy to see anyone walk up to the pen. We felt bad for the poor things. Here we met a fellow who was vacationing with his wife and adult daughter and on their way home to Minnesota. We've seen so few Americans along the way, we struck up a conversation with them and learned their route had been to some areas of Canada where we were heading. They would be pulling out early the next morning so we didn't really get to know them or get a photo. Monday's day trip was to the riverbank village of Notre-Dame-du-Portage. This is a beautiful place and I took lots of pictures of the homes. The landscape here is also breathtakingly beautiful, as the farmlands reach right down to the water's edge. Large tracts of land are growing in lovely colors, the yellow blooming fields, we were told later, are of some kind of granola. We've passed thousands of areas of delicate pink wildflowers and I have managed to get a few pictures of them too. Here is a link.

July 18-19, 2010 Riviere du Loup

Camp Au Jardin at La Baie, Quebec

July 16 and 17 we stayed in an activity filled family campground in the small town of La Baie along the river. Two young ladies (kids, really) assigned us to a site in one corner of the campground. A permanently attached firepit and some poorly placed trees caused a great deal of parking trouble but with a little southern inguinity, we managed to get 40' of motorhome parked with the help of some good neighbors. We find we are continuing to pay for ammenities that are of no interest to us. This campground has a huge pool, mini-golf, playground, billiard and game room, bingo and live music on Saturday night. A spaghetti supper would be served too. We did not indulge. Kids and dogs are everywhere, bicycles in every direction. We met a terrific couple from farther up the north shore and enjoyed visiting with them. Norman worked on the railroad for 35 years and Mary Anne, his wife gave me a receipe for smoked fish. She gave us a sampling of her smoked trout and it was delicious. She marinates the filet for 15 minutes in rum and then packs in in a brine solution of 50% brown sugar for 12 hours before smoking it. Delicious but I'd have to buy a smoker and that's just not happening. We stayed here for the two weekend nights, Friday and Saturday, and took a day trip to Lake Saint Jean. We were thinking of traveling here for a week-long stop, but couldn't find a campground that suited us. On Sunday, we would, instead, backgrack to Quebec City, cross the river and move east along the southern shore of the St. Lawrence... Here is a link to some of the pictures:

July 16-17, 2010 To LaBaie and Lac St Jean Quebec