Wyoming Wildfire

Driving east on I-90 today, about 8 miles north of Buffalo, Wyoming, we saw a wildfire. It was in the Bighorn National Forest.  

The first sign of the fire

A bit closer

This was as close as we came to the fire.
For a good perspective of the size of the fire and the distance we are from it,
look at the small houses and barns in the plains below the fire. 

Little Bighorn

In the valley of the Little Bighorn River, over two days in June 1876, Lt. Colonel George Custer, his officers, some 260 U.S. Army soldiers fought and died along with about 80 Lakota and Cheyenne warriors.  The land here is now a National Monument and is part of the US Department of the Interior's National Park Service.  We spent a day visiting the surrounding area, the town of Garryowen and the Battlefield.

The Battle of The Little Bighorn was fought near Garryowen, Montana

Busts of Sitting Bull, Lt. Col. Custer and the Tomb of the Unknown
Near Sitting Bull's Camp

Sitting Bull

Touring the battlefield at Little Bighorn was as moving as the visit to Gettysburg had been for me two years ago.

Little Bighorn Battlefield is a very solemn place.  Nice wide paths allow visitors to walk onto the wide open fields and a five mile drive gives everyone a chance to explore the full length of the battlefield.  Smoking is not allowed anywhere on any of the grounds. Animals, even on leash, are not allowed and walking outside the paths is also prohibited. Violators are prosecuted.

It was warm and the sun was bright the day we visited. The dry grass on the battlefield was gold colored.

The valley below is where the Indians were camped.

Research and battleground exploration have yielded enough evidence to place markers
where soldiers and Indian warriors are likely to have fallen. 

Rose colored granite markers are placed where the Indian warriors probably died.











Memorials to Those Who Died

Seventh Cavalry Memorial 

 Native American Memorial

The Story of Three Bears

As usually happens, the Labor Day weekend came around and we didn't have a campground reservation.  Heck, we didn't even have a destination!  We're just making our way east -- eventually into South Dakota with no real timetable or appointment.

Travel through northern Spokane, Coeur d'Alene, across the Bitterroot Range and the Lolo Mountains was scenic and enjoyable. We did wake up Friday morning to find a wet spot on the curb side of the coach under the half bath. Facing the long weekend we feared the worst.  Seeing a large RV dealership along I-90 we stopped to have the leak checked and were relieved to learn it was just the fresh water overflow leaking because we had a full tank and were parked on a bit of a slope.

The Columbia River  

This military plane flew very close overhead as we were driving down the highway.
That's bugs on the windshield. 

If there's one thing we've learned about finding a campground vacancy during a popular three-day weekend, it's to find a place without family friendly amenities.  By that I mean a place without a swimming pool, playground or planned activities.  More times than not we end up in a campground we like.   It happened again this year when we pulled into River Edge Resort, just off I-90 in Alberton, Montana.

Late afternoon at our campsite.

Our campsite at River Edge looked out over the Clark Fork River, the railroad and a mountain. It was terrific.  At first sight, I though Wayne would surely not stop. The campground was small with narrow dirt roads between the tall pine trees. He would have kept going too, I think, if he'd thought he could turn around somewhere. But he couldn't turn around and he did stop. I went in to register us for the next three nights.

Looking up the Clark Fork River 

Signs directed "RV Registration" through a door into a lovely rustic restaurant where I registered with the bartender.  The first thing I saw was a sign posted clearly that a bear had been in the campground two weeks earlier.  In fact, three bears had been here, looking for food. The bears were so persistent that they had to be removed by wildlife service personnel.  All three bears were relocated to a remote area. Clear instructions were given for what we should not leave outdoors at our campsite.  I learned that an elderly woman who lived nearby and fed bears regularly had died recently. The bears were, apparently, looking for a new source for meals. This was a bit worrisome when walking two small dogs late at night and early in the morning.


We never saw any bears while we were at River Edge and we loved being here with one exception: no campsite internet service.  The restaurant had really good wi-fi  though so I spent some time there with the computer.  The restaurant also had wonderfully delicious food.

Our campsite
The weather was great.  Sunny warm days, cool nights. No rain.  

Early morning train

We pulled out of River Edge and Alberton on Monday morning without ever seeing a single bear.

Next stop, Little Bighorn battleground.  Hope to see you there.

I Found Some Heros

Traveling around the country we meet plenty of people who make an impression.  Sure, some of them make a pretty sorry impression.  But most are pretty good folks and I'm favorably impressed by lots of people.

Sometimes, though, we run across really memorable people.  It happened at North Whidbey RV Park at Oak Harbor when we met the couple who manage it -- Tom and Carolyn.  Real nice folks.

Because I'm a talker (as though you didn't know), I immediately struck up a conversation with Tom when he stopped by our campsite to clean out some trash left behind from the people who were here before us.  I learned Tom is a cop. No... more than that... Tom is a cop's cop.  Yes, this is the guy I'd call for help even if I were police officer.  Better still, Tom is married to a cop.  That would be Carolyn.  Not just a female cop, mind you, but an undercover cop.  The absolute nicest people you'd ever hope to meet just minding their own business running a campground.  You'd just never guess the wonderful things these people have done with their lives and I couldn't do justice trying to explain it.

In two days, Tom will be in Pakistan. That's really why Tom is a hero to me. He's with a small group of who go for a few months every year to help train the fledgling police force there.  Tom's not bragging about his efforts, he's just doing something he likes to do and wants to do. 

I teased Carolyn a little bit about letting Tom go into harms way.  She just gave a smile and told me how much she believes in him and what he does.  That's why Carolyn is a hero to me.

This, I just had to share.

May God bless your every footstep, Tom.  Yours too, Carolyn.

There are some other heros on Whidbey Island too.  Our campground is only about 5 miles from Whidbey Island Naval Air Station.  Navy jets take off, land and fly really low over the campground nearly every day and night.  It's a very loud but comforting sound.  Thanks to all who care enough to serve America.

I couldn't help but stand outside and watch!

Deception Pass, Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands

It seems as though we've traveled several hundred miles in the past few weeks, but in reality, we've not been far at all... as the crow flies.  We've literally made a circle around the largest part of Puget Sound.  The map below shows what I mean:

A. Point Hudson at Port Townsend, Washington - B. Port Angeles, Washington - C. Victoria, BC - D. Nanaimo, BC - E. Horseshoe Bay, Vancouver, BC - F. Whistler, BC - G. Ferndale, Washington - H. Whidbey Island, Washington
 

This map shows Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands connected by
 Deception Pass Bridge (A) a vertigo sufferers' nightmare.
Camano Island is accessible  by car from the mainland,
and only by ferry from Whidbey Island.

We are currently visiting Whidbey Island, the largest of a group of nine small islands. Whidbey lies between the Olympic Peninsula and the I-5 metro corridor of Washington and forms the northern boundary of Puget Sound. Whidbey Island is about 35 miles long -- it's width varies from 1.5 miles to 12 miles.


We're winding up a 10 day stay here at Deception Pass on the north end of Whidbey Island. We were here last year too, but only for a day -- no room in the campground.  We have, without a doubt, enjoyed some of the finest weather in the country during our visit this year. There's been sunshine almost everyday with temperatures  cool enough to require a sweatshirt.


Our campground is only about a mile from Deception Pass, a strait of violent water that separates Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands. Deception Pass connects Skagit Bay in Puget Sound, with the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Deception Pass Bridge from below on the Whidbey Island side.

The Deception Pass area was mapped and named on June 7, 1792 after George Vancouver  had mistakenly thought Whidbey Island was a peninsula. Two-lane Deception Pass Bridge, was completed in 1935. There are actually two bridges here: Deception Pass is the larger section, Canoe Pass is the smaller.  Some other Deception Pass Bridge facts:

• Height from water to roadway: about 180 feet, depending on the tide
• Roadway: two 11 foot lanes, one in each direction
• Sidewalks: a 3 foot sidewalk on each side
• Width of bridge deck: 28 feet
• Total length: 1487 feet (more than a quarter mile)
• Canoe Pass: one 350-ft arch and three concrete T-beam approach spans
• Deception Pass: two 175-ft cantilever spans, one 200-ft suspended span, and four concrete T-beam approach spans
• Vehicle crossings: 20,000 per day, average
• Maximum speed of current in Deception Pass at flood/ebb tide: 9 kts
• Maximum speed of current in Canoe Pass at flood/ebb tide: 10 kts
• Completion of the bridge was a factor in the decision to build Naval Air Station Whidbey Island and helped Oak Harbor, Washington flourish.
• The bridge is among the most photographed landmarks of the Puget Sound region

Deception Pass Bridge

This sailboat was quite large but from where I
took this picture (under the bridge), it appears tiny.

Deception Pass is a dramatic seascape where the tidal flow and whirlpools beneath the twin bridges connecting Fidalgo Island to Whidbey Island move quickly. During low tide, the swift current can lead to standing waves, large whirlpools, and roiling eddies. This swift current phenomenon can be viewed from the twin bridges' pedestrian walkways or from the trail leading below the larger south bridge from the parking lot on the Whidbey Island side. Boats can be seen waiting on either side of the pass for the current to stop or change direction before going through. Thrill-seeking kayakers go there during large tide changes to surf the standing waves and brave the class 2 and 3 rapid conditions.

Deception Pass



Skagit Bay harbor just south of Deception Pass not far from our campground.

Coupeville is about midway down Whidbey Island.  It's a quaint little town that looks much the same way it did way back in the early 1900's.  We took a day trip there to take a look and eat lunch at Knead To Feed, a little cafe that is only open for breakfast and lunch.  Here's what we ate:

 

Oops, forgot to take the picture 'till it was too late!

 

The Wayner enjoyed his chowder too, just not as fast as I enjoyed mine.  Because we arrived late and got the last bit of clam chowder, our bowls were not filled to the brim and as a result... we got a discount.  I'd rather have the whole bowl of chowder than the discount! 

 

 

Coupeville is located in the heart of Ebey's Landing National Historic Preserve and still reflects the character of a seafaring town of a time long past.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coupeville is on the shore of Penn Cove. Several eateries and bars overlook the cove.
The day was overcast, damp and a little cool.
The air smelled of fish to me and I would not enjoy eating outside at low tide. UGh.

 

 

After lunch we strolled the streets, poking our heads into antique shops, bars and nautical junk stores. It didn't take long to find Kapaws IsKreme store where we enjoyed a double scoop.

His Mission:  ice cream.



Ice cream store found.
What flavor?

Another day we traveled north across Deception Pass to Fidalgo Island and the City of Anacortes, a town adored by many but I found to be only mildly interesting.  The best view on Fidalgo Island was from atop Cap Sante on the northern part of the island.

Fidalgo Island was home to Walla Walla State Penitentiary in the early 1900's where prisoners cut rock into gravel and loaded it onto barges to be taken to Seattle. Remains of the prison can still be found but the area is dangerously located on the edge of a steep cliff where many have met their death venturing out too far.

 

Typical view from Cap Sante.

That's the city of Anacortes behind me.

Always with those binoculars in hand.

 

On this afternoon we stopped at a little roadside place on our way back to the campground. It's called Sweet D's Shrimp Shack. It was here we found the best fish and chips yet. 

 

 

 

The blurred image is surely a result of a very hungry photographer.  

 

Hope you enjoyed the "eats" with us here on Whidbey and Fidalgo Islands. 

 

 

 

 

Ferndale and Bellingham, Washington: Recovery Time

We regained our wits from the dreadful border crossing at a cute little campground called Nor' Easter RV Park in Ferndale, Washington.  Ferndale was originally named "Jam" because of it's location near a logjam along the Nooksack River. Fortunately, somebody got wise and renamed it. The city's new name came from a patch of wild ferns growing around an old schoolhouse.  These stories are just too outrageous to have been made up.

Ferndale is due east of the North Cascades National Park and enjoys a great view of Mount Baker.

About 30 miles east of here, Mount Baker is home to many snowboarding champions.  This area  holds the world record for greatest amount of snowfall in one season (winter 1998–1999). During most years snow depths exceed 12 feet and often results in the closure of the ski area before the end of the winter months.

During the few days we stayed at Ferndale we explored nearby Bellingham.  The Bridges of Madison County (the book, but not the movie) actually begins in Bellingham with the photographer being from here.  I guess they didn't need that part in the movie, produced by and staring Clint Eastwood.

The Alaska Ferry Terminal is located in the Fairhaven section of Bellingham. This serves as the southern terminus of the Alaska Marine Highway.  The ferry service from here offers vehicle and passenger service north to Ketchikan, Alaska and points north.

The Kennicott was loading for ferry service north into Alaska.
 

While we were in Squamish, BC last week we talked at length with a neighbor who had taken his rig up the Northwest Passage by one of these ferries. He talked about how much fun he and his wife had getting off the ferry for a few days at various places.  It made us think about the possibility of making the trip. The price would be upwards of $5000 round trip for our rig, depending on the Alaska destination.  We'll just keep thinking 'bout it.

The Fairhaven section of Bellingham is quaint and nostalgic.

Another nice stop at Bellingham was Squalicum Harbor where we stopped for a dog walk and enjoyed some nice marine scenery.

The sailboat part of the marina.

With Mount Baker peeking over the closer mountain range.

At some point along the way, we spotted this rig and thought we should send it to a friend, Tom, who has been looking for a truck camper.  He didn't get back with us about whether or not he wanted us to make an inquiry into its purchase. 

After about three days in and around Fairhaven / Bellingham, we recovered enough to move along. We're headed to nearby Whidbey Island now.  Hope you'll join us there.